reims guide 2023 – Kaaren Palmer Champagne

Three Days in Reims

If you’ve been thoroughly bitten by the champagne bug, you’ll enjoy three or more days in Reims with a list of ‘musts’ from a city where many sites are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Make sure that you book – even at wine bars.

The great thing about my guide is that the links will take you straight to being able explore the recommendation and make a booking. While in Reims, even those more casual spur of the moment bookings or even getting a cab can be made using this guide of my favourites straight from your phone.

KAAREN PALMER EVALUATING A CHAMPAGNE AT THE ANNUAL GROWERS’ TASTING IN APRIL

STAY AT ANY OF THESE PLACES:

Hotel La Caserne Chanzy (new hotel with fabulous view of the cathedral, excellent champagne list and a good restaurant)
Hotel Le Paix (with champagne bar)
Hotel Le Continental (handy to the train)
Les 7 Anges (super luxurious self-catering apartment with stunning views of the back of the cathedral)

HOTEL LA CASERNE CHANZY…IMAGE COPYRIGHT © HOTEL LA CASERNE CHANZY

LESS CONVENIENT FOR WALKING
BUT LUXURIOUS:

L’Assiette Champenoise 
Les Crayères 

LUXURIOUS BUT CAR REQUIRED:

Chateau de Sacy 
Royal Champagne 

CHÂTEAU DE SACY
IMAGE COPYRIGHT © CHATEAU DE SACY

MUST DO LIST

  • Book a guided walking tour in English or French using this link: The tour concentrates on the influence of champagne wines in the life of the city, followed by a glass of champagne in the convivial atmosphere of a well-appointed private home. (Translate the page with Google Translate.)
  • The crayères – book in advance to do a tour of Ruinart, the oldest champagne house, which happens to be located above the old Roman chalk pits (crayères) 
  • The Cathedral of Notre-Dame Reims where the kings of France were crowned – walk around inside at your leisure details here.
  • Visit the Palais de Tau, the historic archbishop’s palace which contains many treasures, such as Charlemagne’s talisman (9th century) , and the 12th century chalice which was used for celebrating the coronation masses. Check opening hours as it’s undergoing repairs. 
THE MAGNIFICENT STAINED GLASS WINDOWS AT THE CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME REIMS 
  • Walk the art deco city rebuilt from the ruins of Reims after the 1st World War – rue Talleyrand, Drouet d’Erlon, Opera Carnegie, Librairie Carnegie, Place Royal and the side streets. 
  • Visit 2 historic houses – book in advance, then walk to Champagne Lanson via Parc Lagrange. Make an appointment to see the crayères of Veuve Clicquot, the champagne house founded by an amazing widow who was instrumental in solving the problem of collecting the yeast lees in the neck of the champagne bottle via a ‘riddling table’, who came up with the idea of adding red wine to make a stable rosé coloured champagne, and who documented her early use of reserve wines to ameliorate the effects of harvests of variable quality. 
  • Visit historic medieval St Rémi basilica (perhaps after you’ve visited Veuve Clicquot, as it’s within walking distance). 
THE WONDERFUL ART DECO ARCHITECTURE IN THE CITY
THIS IS THE STREET-SCAPE ALONGSIDE THE BOULINGRIN MARKET
  • Tour the art nouveau – art deco Villa Demoiselle on the outskirts of Reims adjacent to Vranken-Pommery Monopole. Conceived and built by Henry Vasnier, a partner of Madame Pommery, it was restored by Madame Vranken in the early 2000s. click here for details.
  • Check out the Cryptoportique in the Place du Forum. This Roman gallery, built around the year 1000 as part of the Roman forum, was subsequently used as a marketplace, and today features concerts in the summer months.
  • Nearby is the fascinating Musée-Hotel Le Vergeur, once owned by the son of Champagne Louis Roederer’s very successful first international salesman. The house is an immersive experience in the preserved interiors of a residence of the Reims upper class, illustrating three centuries of the art of living and world travel, also telling an intimate story of the heritage of Reims, around the figure of the house’s most illustrious owner, Hugues Krafft, son of the aforementioned Roederer salesman. 
SPRING BLOOMS IN THE GARDENS NEAR BOULEVARD GENERAL LECLERC
  • While the house of Champagne Taittinger is closed for development work, tastings are being held in the handsome Demeure de Comtes de Champagne in rue de Tambour. click here and book via Taittinger’s website. click here for details. 
  • Visit the lively Halles Du Boulingrin (also art deco) fresh food market on Wednesday mornings, Fridays and Saturdays. Quench your thirst with a tasting session featuring Special Club and other cuvées at the Club Trésors behind the market click here for details. 
  • Students of war history should not miss the Musée de la Reddition (Museum of the Surrender, located in the street behind Reims train station) commemorating the end of the second World War in Europe at the actual site of surrender. 
  • Walk the beautifully planted gardens from the remains of the Roman triumphal arch of the Porte de Mars to end of Blvd Gen Leclerc. 
HALLES DU BOULINGRIN

BARS WITH SNACKS

RESTAURANTS

AMUSE BOUCHE AT L’ASSIETTE CHAMPENOISE
L’Assiette Champenoise (3 Michelin stars)
Racine (2 Michelin stars)
Le Parc Les Crayères (2 Michelin stars)
Le Foch (1 Michelin star)
Le Crypto 
Le Bocal (seafood)
Au Petit Comptoir
PICTURED RIGHT LE PARC LES CRAYÈRES
IMAGE COPYRIGHT © LES CRAYÈRES
ABOVE AND LEFT CAFÉ DU PALAIS

IF YOU HAVE A CAR

You can eat very well at Anselme Selosse’s delightful hotel, Les Avisés, in Avize.

Le Grand Cerf (1 Michelin star, at Montchenot on the outskirts of Reims, en route to Épernay) 

Le Royal at the Royal Champagne (1 Michelin star, at Champillon, en route to Épernay)

ABOVE RIGHT….SELOSSE’S DELIGHTFUL HOTEL, LES AVISÉS GARDEN IN SPRING.
BELOW LUNCH IN THEIR GARDEN

TAXIS

Les Taxis de Reims +33 (0)3 26 47 05 05 if you speak French,
otherwise download the App from Google Play or from the Apple Store

Bolt is also a useful rideshare App in Reims

It is a good idea to book ahead of time

ABC Taxi Reims +33 (0)6 30 81 69 58
Taxi Roussel +33 (0)6 11 97 79 27

Google offers more results by searching taxi Reims

PRIVATE CHAUFFEUR

Fabrice +33 (0)7 66 77 99 46

AUTHOR KAAREN PALMER…FIRST PUBLISHED JUNE 15 2023